At Reginelli's, the slice is the thing

The Detroit-style pizza, paired with an appetizer, is all you need to be happy.

At Reginelli's, the slice is the thing
A pizza as revved up as the Motor City. (RedEye photo)

Some diners chase every new restaurant that opens. We're guilty of it ourselves at RedEye. But the established places keep going for a reason: good service and a dish or two that keeps pulling you back.

With new pizza joints popping up all over town, Reginelli's is one of those places.

The restaurant on Jefferson near Government, the last local location of the New Orleans chain, does something unusual. It sells Detroit-style pizza by the slice.

Detroit-style pizza is rectangular, with a thick, chewy, pillowy crust and edges where the cheese bakes into a crisp, caramelized frame. Order your slice with pepperoni, or pepperoni and sausage, or go off-menu for the cheese only. They'll gladly oblige.

Reginelli's Detroit pizza reminded me a little of Fleur de Lis. The crust is thick, crisp and chewy. It's bread, a foundation for a balanced red sauce (not sweet, thankfully) under plenty of melted cheese.

You won't find another pizza like it in the city. But that's not the reason to go. Go because it's bread and tomatoes and pepperoni and cheese.

And it's delicious.