Rolling with ramen

Daruma Ramen opens, Mu Dan and Zuma are next

Rolling with ramen
Daruma Ramen is among several new restaurnts by the Zhengs. (RedEye image)

The Stacy and Danny Zheng family has made a serious bet on Government Street, bringing a broad Asian menu to a Mid City spot that has seen enough failed concepts to qualify as a cautionary tale.

The details: Their new restaurant, Daruma Ramen, has opened in a remade building near Doe's Eat Place. That address has been a carousel of cuisines, which is the polite way to say a lot of places have not made it.

What makes this one different: The Zhengs did not dabble. They spent more than $1 million to purchase and rework the space, adding festive décor and a wide menu built to appeal to more than just ramen devotees. You can get baos, boba tea, dumplings, wings and sliders with a Daruma twist.

What we tried: On a recent visit, the baos were the softest we've had in town, with Korean bulgogi that leaned a bit sweet but worked. The beef ramen brought real spice, while the thin-sliced beef stayed impressively tender.

Yes, there's a robot: The crowd favorite may be the robot server, which rolls your order to the table. You can grab the food yourself or have a server bring it to your table. Servers were looking for a nickname for the robot. (May we suggest Roux-bot or Miso?)

What's next: The Zhengs are opening more places.

  • Mu Dan, a dim sum restaurant, is expected to open in June in the former Southern Pearl Oyster House space on Perkins Road.
  • Zuma, a revolving sushi restaurant on Government Street, is in the works but won't open before Mu Dan. It will be near South Foster.

The bottom line: Government Street has another restaurant, and the corridor continues to cement itself as a dining destination after a road diet attracted new investment. And Daruma looks built to last at what has long been a tricky address.