A seat at a different table

Why it matters: Baton Rouge says it likes food. But sometimes it mistakes familiarity for excellence.

When Laura Siu Nguyen saw that 225 magazine readers had picked P.F. Chang’s as the city’s best Chinese restaurant, she was, in her words and demeanor, both miffed and motivated. A Honduran whose family emigrated from China decades ago, she decided Baton Rouge, her city now, could use a better introduction to Chinese food—and to the cuisines of other countries that rarely get a proper tasting here.

Her idea: Bring chefs into local restaurants for one-night dinners that showcase food, culture and the stories behind both. That became Table Story Dinners, her event company, which has now produced 12 such meals. She also produces Night Market BTR, which draws thousands to downtown in spring. 

The latest Table Dinner: At Vicious Biscuit in Gonzales, chef-owner Alex Player, whose mother is Korean, turned out street food from Korea that was paired with Asian drinks. Seventy-two people showed up, many of them regulars. The food landed. Kimchi pickles, Korean short ribs and other dishes introduced flavors that many diners had not tried before, and liked enough to keep talking about.

But: The dinners are not just about eating. Siu-Nguyen curates the seating and imposes one rule: no talking about work. That forces people to ask more interesting questions—about family, hobbies, where they are from and how they wound up in the Capital Region. 

The bigger picture: Baton Rouge has become more diverse in recent years, but its public palate often lags behind its population. Table Story Dinners is one way to close that gap.

What's next: Siu-Nguyen hosts the dinners quarterly. The next one may feature Jamaican food from a New Orleans chef. More information is on the Table Story Dinners website.